Near the end of the lake, live Sonia and Manuel with their son, Pablo. Sonia makes and sells fabulous cheese, homemade bread and farm-fresh eggs. We were invited to sleep in their field, and woke to the goats investigating our tent. This is a farm that has no access to the outside world besides via a three day horse ride through muddy rainforest. Spending time inside their house felt like a time warp to the old west of the United States, with neighbors dropping in for gossip and trade. Even the mail is brought to the area on horseback by whoever happens to make the trek into town - with addresses no more sophisticated than "Lago Vidal Gormaz, Comuna de Cochamo." Sonia also makes ponchos and saddlebags for sale in Puerto Montt. They live here all year long, even through the long, cold winters where the lake freezes over thick enough for them to iceskate on clear days. |
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